How Did We Get Here?
The history of watchmaking is rich and multi-continental. Its origins and traditions span the globe, with a variety of countries lending valuable contributions which brought the craft of horology where it is today. Some of the most well-known players include countries like Switzerland, Japan, and Germany.
The earliest personal timepieces designed to be worn originated in 16th century Germany. If you were to take a look at one of the earliest models, you might mistake it for the illusive Golden Snitch from a Hogwarts Quidditch match. Place it next to a modern sports watch and you’d never know one was the ancestor to the other.
Nearby in 16th century Switzerland, reformer Jean Calvin put a ban on ornamental jewelry. This rule left jewelry makers in a bit of a conundrum. Rather than closing up shop, they set their sights on the personal timepiece to carry on their craft. Thanks to its incredible number of watchmakers, Switzerland soon became the watch capital of the world, importing tens of thousands of timepieces each year.
At the dawn of the 17th century, Charles II of England introduced waistcoats and wanted a timepiece that would fit into the pockets, protecting it from being damaged by the elements. Thus, the more traditional pocket watch was born.
Skip ahead to the early 19th century and we find Napoleon Bonaparte’s little sister, Queen Caroline Murat of Naples, looking for a way to sport her own timepiece. Remember, these were the days when dresses didn’t have pockets. Truly the dark ages. So, she commissioned a Swiss watchmaker doing business in Paris by the name of Abraham-Louis Breguet to fashion a timepiece which could be worn on the wrist. The wristwatch was born.
The US Enters the Scene
“That’s all fine and dandy,” you say. “But where was the US of A in all of this?” We’re glad you asked. While it might seem that the US never had a piece on the board in the continental game of watchmaking, the innovative spirit of our great nation earned us a seat at the table. Up until the mid-19th century, the time and materials it took to build a watch kept them out of the common man’s reach. Every US watch was a luxury USA watch.
However, the industrial revolution which swept the nation introduced more efficient ways of mass production. Watch makers were finally able to offer quality watches designed in the USA at a lower price point, making them accessible to the working class. Not only that, but these new standards of production spread to watchmakers around the globe and forever changed the course of horological history.
In fact, it was American watchmakers who saw the need for the working man (and woman) to carry a durable, reliable timepiece. Accurate timekeeping was essential to many jobs of the Age of Innovation. Watches designed with the railroad worker or military pilot in mind brought the necessity and versatility of these trusty timepieces to light. The world was quickly realizing the benefits accurate and durable watches could bring to the workforce and the US was blazing the trail.
But American innovation doesn’t necessarily mean function over fashion. While Swiss watches maintained their symbol of status and luxury, American brands like Timex began to emerge with pieces that fused both fashion and function and rose to global prominence. And they did it with groundbreaking mechanics and technology.
Swiss watchmakers were so inspired by American production solutions that they completely changed the way they manufactured timepieces. The two did, however, have one major difference in method. In the United States, watchmaking factories designed, produced, and assembled nearly all parts and pieces in-house. When the Great Depression and World Wars hit, most American watch manufacturers had to close up shop.
In Switzerland, various pieces were manufactured by an array of production companies. If the supplier for one piece went out of business, another could be found to take its place. These specialized manufacturers could hone in on their individual piece and perfect it. For this reason, Swiss watches have continued to take home the gold in luxury watchmaking.
The Present and Future of American Watches
Is the art of American watchmaking a thing of the past, doomed to disappear in the dust of the past? Not by a long shot. A new day is dawning. Thanks to good-old-fashioned American innovation and entrepreneurship, the market for US watches is growing rapidly. And so is the demand.
Small businesses that boost our nation’s economy, boast ethically-produced materials, and promote a higher standard for manufacturing are thriving. A new breed of watchmakers is bringing expert craftsmanship and one-of-a-kind designs to the table. Thanks to these watch enthusiasts, there is now a timepiece for every person, every style, and every situation.
As these and other yet-to-emerge brands continue to push the boundaries of technology and design, their appreciation and impact will continue to spread from sea to shining sea.